Chiesa del Gesù

Overview

The Chiesa del Gesù (also known as Santi Ambrogio e Andrea) is Genoa's most lavishly decorated baroque church, famously housing two important paintings by Peter Paul Rubens. The interior is a dazzling explosion of gilded stucco, coloured marble, and trompe-l'oeil frescoes.

Highlights

• Rubens altarpieces: The Circumcision (1605) and the Miracles of St Ignatius (1620) — two major works by the Flemish master, commissioned for this church.
• Gilded interior: Every surface blazes with gold leaf, polychrome marble, and dramatic chiaroscuro frescoes.
• Ceiling frescoes: Giovanni Battista Carlone's massive ceiling painting of St Ignatius in glory.

History

Originally the medieval church of Sant'Ambrogio, it was taken over by the Jesuits in 1589. They rebuilt it from 1589 to 1606 in the Counter-Reformation style, creating one of Italy's most theatrically decorated churches. Rubens, who lived in Genoa, painted his altarpieces directly for this space.

Visitor Tips

• Free entry: Simply step inside — the visual impact is immediate and overwhelming.
• Binoculars: Bring them to study the ceiling frescoes in detail.
• Duration: 20–30 minutes.