Oltrarno

Overview

The Oltrarno ('beyond the Arno') is Florence's artisan quarter, a less touristic neighborhood of craftsmen's workshops, bohemian bars, and neighbourhood trattorias. Santo Spirito square is its social heart—a leafy piazza with a Brunelleschi church and evening aperitivo scene.

Highlights

• Artisan workshops: Woodworkers, bookbinders, and restoration studios line Via Maggio and Borgo San Frediano.
• Piazza Santo Spirito: Brunelleschi's church, morning market, and evening drinks create the best neighbourhood square in Florence.
• San Niccolò: The quiet eastern Oltrarno with the Bardini Gardens and the stairs to Piazzale Michelangelo.

History

Historically a working-class area outside the medieval walls, the Oltrarno retained its artisan character even as the rest of Florence gentrified. The Medici moved here when they bought Palazzo Pitti in 1549.

Visitor Tips

• Evening: Santo Spirito is Florence's best aperitivo square.
• Workshops: Many artisans welcome visitors—peek through open doors.
• Duration: 1–3 hours.