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The Oltrarno ('beyond the Arno') is Florence's artisan quarter, a less touristic neighborhood of craftsmen's workshops, bohemian bars, and neighbourhood trattorias. Santo Spirito square is its social heart—a leafy piazza with a Brunelleschi church and evening aperitivo scene.
Historically a working-class area outside the medieval walls, the Oltrarno retained its artisan character even as the rest of Florence gentrified. The Medici moved here when they bought Palazzo Pitti in 1549.