Parque del Retiro

Overview

The Parque del Buen Retiro is Madrid's green soul—125 hectares of manicured gardens, ancient trees, sculptures, and cultural venues that once served as the private retreat of the Spanish monarchy. It was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2021.

Highlights

• The Grand Pond: The focal point of the park, a large rectangular artificial lake where visitors rent rowboats beneath a towering colonnade monument to King Alfonso XII.
• Palacio de Cristal: A gorgeous 1887 glass-and-iron pavilion modelled on London's Crystal Palace, set beside a picturesque pond.
• The Fallen Angel Statue: One of the only public statues in the world depicting the Devil—a dramatic 1878 bronze showing Lucifer at the moment of his fall from heaven, standing exactly 666 metres above sea level.

History

Created in the 1630s for King Philip IV as the grounds of the Buen Retiro Palace, it served as the exclusive playground of royalty for over two centuries. It was opened to the public in 1868 after Isabella II was deposed. Much of the original palace was destroyed during the Napoleonic invasion; only the Casón del Buen Retiro survives.

Visitor Tips

• Rowboats: Rent a boat on the Grand Pond for a classic Madrid experience (€6 for 45 minutes).
• Sunday: The park fills with buskers, puppet shows, and fortune tellers along the Paseo de las Estatuas on weekend mornings.
• Duration: 1.5–2 hours.