Santa Maria del Popolo

Overview

Anchoring the northern edge of Piazza del Popolo, this significant Renaissance and Baroque church is a treasure trove of fine art, famous for seamlessly housing masterpieces by Caravaggio, Raphael, and Bernini.

Highlights

• The Cerasi Chapel: the masterpiece of the church. It houses two dramatic, lit oil paintings by Caravaggio (The Conversion of Saint Paul and The Crucifixion of Saint Peter), challenging Annibale Carracci's bright altarpiece in the center.
• The Chigi Chapel: Designed by Raphael as a private, opulent mausoleum for his immensely wealthy banking patron, Agostino Chigi, later finished by Bernini.
• The Apse: Features the very first stained glass windows ever installed in Rome, crafted by French master Guillaume de Marcillat in the early 1500s.

History

Fierce Roman legend dictates that the church was built in 1099 to notably exorcise the angry ghost of the hated Emperor Nero, whose tomb according to tradition stood on this spot and was haunted by a massive flock of demonic ravens. It was rebuilt by Pope Sixtus IV in the 15th century, becoming a prestigious burial site for the Roman aristocracy.

Visitor Tips

• Illumination: Bring coins to operate the light box in the Cerasi Chapel; Caravaggio's dark masterpieces are virtually invisible without it.
• Dan Brown Fans: Yes, this is the exact church featured in Angels and Demons containing the "Demon's Hole."
• Duration: 30–45 minutes.