Overview
Hidden behind an unassuming iron gate in the trendy Haut Marais, the Marché des Enfants Rouges is an absolute sensory overload. Established in 1615, it holds the prestigious title of being the oldest covered food market in Paris.
Highlights
- The Food Stalls: It operates less like a grocery market and more like an incredibly vibrant, chaotic international food court.
- Le Traiteur Marocain: Arguably the most famous stall in the market, serving massive, steaming terracotta tagines and incredible couscous cooked by the legendary proprietor, Alain.
- Chez Taeko: A tiny, intensely authentic Japanese bento stall that is famously favored by the local Parisian fashion crowd.
History
The market takes its somewhat eerie name ("Market of the Red Children") from a 16th-century orphanage that previously occupied the site. The orphans were traditionally dressed entirely in red cloth, which was the cheapest dye available at the time and a recognized symbol of Christian charity. The market was nearly bulldozed for a parking lot in the 1990s before massive neighborhood protests saved it.
Visitor Tips
- Timing: It is outrageously popular with locals for weekend brunch. Arrive before noon on a Sunday if you want any chance of finding a seat at the communal wooden tables.
- Atmosphere: Expect a loud, wonderfully chaotic, slightly cramped dining experience where you share tables with strangers.
- Duration: 1–1.5 hours for lunch.