Butte-aux-Cailles

Overview

Butte-aux-Cailles is one of the strictly best-kept secrets in Paris. Sitting high on a hill in the 13th arrondissement, this charming, village-like neighborhood retains its historic cobblestone streets, low houses, and a independent, working-class spirit.

Highlights

• The Street Art: The winding streets are covered in some of the best, most vibrant, and political street art in all of Paris (look for works by Miss.Tic).
• The Swimming Pool: The famous Piscine de la Butte-aux-Cailles, a stunningly beautiful 1920s Art Nouveau public swimming pool fed by an ancient, natural massive underground hot spring.
• The Architecture: devoid of massive Haussmann boulevards, the tiny winding streets feature charming, vine-covered two-story worker's cottages and tiny neighborhood squares.

History

Originally a totally independent poor village perched on a steep hill overlooking the polluted Bièvre river. In 1871, it became a fierce, bloody stronghold for the Paris Commune revolutionaries who fought against the national army. Because the hill was physically too steep for Haussmann's massive construction equipment, it escaped the violent 19th-century modernization of Paris.

Visitor Tips

• Place Paul Verlaine: Stop at the historic artesian well on Place Paul Verlaine, where fierce locals still fill massive plastic jugs with free, pure natural spring water pumped clearly from firmly underground.
• Duration: 1.5–2 hours of wandering.